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Discount Calculator

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Sale prices without the mental arithmetic: what −30% makes of a price, what the original was before the tag, and what stacked discounts really add up to — they multiply, which is why −20% on top of −30% is not −50%.

Three questions at a price tag

Every sale rack raises the same three: what do I pay, what did it really cost before, and what do these combined stickers amount to. All three are one multiplication each — the trick is knowing which one, and doing division for the backwards case instead of the tempting addition.

The effective-discount line for stacked offers is the honest headline: two stickers of 30% and 20% are a 44% discount, printed here as a single number you can compare across shops.

Frequently asked questions

Why is −20% then −30% only −44%?

Because the second discount applies to the already-reduced price: 100 → 80 → 56. Discounts multiply as (1−0.2)×(1−0.3) = 0.56, and shops know most people add instead — which is exactly why 'extra 20% off sale items' feels bigger than it is.

How does the reverse mode work?

Division, not addition: original = sale price ÷ (1 − discount). A jacket at 45.90 after −30% cost 65.57, not 45.90 + 30% = 59.67 — the addition answer is wrong by six manats and is the single most common discount mistake.

Is a bigger percent always the better deal?

Compare final prices, not percentages: −40% on an inflated 'was' price can cost more than −25% on an honest one. This page gives you the pay-line for each so the comparison is money against money.

How do I compare a discount against cashback?

Convert both to final money out of pocket: 10% cashback on 100 is 90 net only if you will certainly spend the cashback; a straight −10% is 90 today, unconditionally. When the percentages match, the immediate discount is worth slightly more.

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